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by Suzanne Wright
There are two Cabos: one is a party town overrun with frat boys and bars with names like Squid Roe and Cabo Wabo. But there is another, quieter, gentler Cabo: San Jose Del Cabo. And there is a magnificent hotel from which to sample both: Marquis Los Cabos.
The saffron building doesn’t reveal itself from the road. Located on the Sea of Cortez on the Baja peninsula, the Marquis Los Cabos’ “lobby” is actually a dramatic open-air living room with marble floors and a sweeping view of the deep blue water. There are delightful, unexpected touches like starfish in the sand-filled ashtrays and art abounds.
All 237 suites are sumptuously appointed and feature Frette linens, balconies and ocean views. My favorite element is the private “niche,” where breakfast and evening sweets appeared every day. If you really want to splurge, the casitas have their own plunge pools and sand beach with lounge chairs on the roof. No wonder this is one of the Leading Hotels of the World.
In Cabo, mountain peaks loom in the distance and the desert gives way to the sea; there are more cacti than palm trees. If you can tear yourself away from the resort, there’s plenty to do. Cabo is the marlin fishing capital of the world, so you can brag about bagging a big one. Rather dive with the fish? From the marina in town, we did, spotting white tip sharks, zebra eels, rays and parrotfish. If you’re a golfer, there are six championship courses nearby, including Robert Trent Jones and Jack Nicklaus designed links with breathtaking views. There is also ATVing and horseback riding.
We loved strolling the tree-shaded streets of the picturesque 18th century missionary town of San Jose del Cabo. Founded by Jesuit priests in 1730 (they built the area’s first mission) it retains the charm of quaint Mexican village. Shops, galleries and courtyard restaurants abound.
At Casa Natalia, a boutique hotel in the heart of town, we have a memorable meal. The chef owner Lois Tenoux uses fresh ingredients to create innovative Mexican-European cuisine accompanied by fine wines from Mexico and Latin America. We lap up fresh clams steamed with scallops, white wine, creamy cilantro, chile poblano with crispy lamb and Oaxaca cheese and a tarte tatin. Although Cabo enjoys 360 days of sunshine a year, it is gently raining when we leave and the air is soft and shimmery.
The following day, we visit the spacious spa. It smells amazing (thanks to aromatherapy candles) and the interior has elegant touches like Mayan art and natural materials like rattan, marble and stone. My holistic massage takes place on the most comfortable table I’ve ever laid on. It starts with a foot massage and exfoliation using herbal oils, before moving onto a full body massage. Yadira, the therapist, is sweetly attentive. Ninety minutes later, I am blissfully relaxed as I head to the patio and sink into a lounge chair overlooking the ocean.
We hang out poolside for the remainder of the afternoon, eating three kinds of ceviche and sipping Bloody Marys. The lip of infinity pool seems to merge with the ocean; it’s deeply restive to the spirit.
That night, we dine in the Marquis’ signature restaurant (be sure to make reservations, there are just a few tables) amid romantic flickering candles. After I am I seated, the waiter thoughtfully drapes a pashmina over the back and sides of the rattan chair so I don’t snag my delicate dress. We enjoy a six course tasting menu, with each dish more luscious than the next. Afterwards, we listen to the meditative sound of thundering waves, before drifting off into a deep sleep.
For reservations, visit www.marquisloscabos.com or call 1-900-745-8883.
