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by Suzanne Wright
They roll out the red carpet when you board the Rocky Mountaineer—literally. Train travel holds an enduring lure and first-class Goldfield Service makes you feel like royalty. I’m departing from Vancouver for Banff, Canada’s oldest national park, on a two day, “daylight” trip (we overnight in hotels like the grand Fairmount Banff Springs along the route).
“If we can’t export the scenery, we’ll import the tourists,” William van Horne, president of the Canada Pacific Railway from 1888-1899, famously said. On a sparkling fall day, following a champagne toast as we leave the station, I’m off to see the storied vistas.
We travel at a leisurely 30 miles per hour (although sometimes the driver slows the train for a photo opportunity) and average about 600 miles daily. While the onboard attendants provide lively rolling commentary, weaving in history, anecdotes and poetry, I gawk through the domed coach at the awe-inspiring scenery of the Canadian Rockies. On day one, we pass the tidy towns and fertile farmland of the Fraser Valley and the golden aspens that dot the hillside in early October.
In the dining car, lunch includes tender Fraser Valley chicken with pumpkin seed crust and seasonal veggies with a fine glass of Burrowing Owl Merlot from British Columbia. I chat with a couple from London who praise the wonderful logistics, excellent food and attentive staff. Word of mouth keeps the Rocky Mountaineer full on most runs
As we pull into Kamloops, the mounted honor guard of the small town salutes us in the glow of sunset. The attendant hands me a key; we are already checked into our rooms and our luggage waits.
Today’s route from Kamloops to Banff promises spectacular landscapes and the enthusiasm is palatable. Breakfast is the Sir Stanford Fleming benedict, an English muffin with poached egg nested on lobster, topped with fresh spinach and a citrus hollandaise and fresh squeezed orange juice.
Today is a bit overcast and fog clings to the tree line. We pass picturesque Sicamus, the houseboat capital of Canada and the Shuswap Lake area, where salmon spawn annually. You can often spy wildlife: elk, wolves, eagles, moose, bighorn sheep, osprey, deer; the attendant points out two black bears near Kicking Horse Canyon and we excitedly press our faces to the windows for a closer look.
Toward the late afternoon, we start our climb through Spiral Tunnels, a maze cut through the granite that doubles back on itself. The majestic peaks of Mount Ogden and Cathedral Mountain loom into view. Following the drizzle, three rainbows have appeared and I clamber to the vestibule for a photograph to mark this breathtaking memory.
How to Book:
Visit www.rockymountaineer.com or call 1-800-665-7245. Numerous land and rail packages are available, including the festive “Land of a Million Christmas Trees” excursion that features jazz and children’s activities in a special car during the December holidays.
Things to Do:
While onboard, enjoy unlimited beverages (including alcoholic drinks like the Caesar made with clamato), snacks (fresh-baked cookies are maple-flavored cheese and crackers). Snap photos
Nearby Attractions:
Stops in Banff and Lake Louise, along with Jasper, where you will stay in the opulent Fairmont hotels (originally built as overnight stops for railroad passengers) are highly recommended.
